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Each year thousands of people pay large sums of money to groomers or veterinary clinics to shave their longhaired dog. Their reasons to shave are varied. Many in the Southern part of the United States feel the dogs will be cooler without the masses of hair while others have ignored weekly grooming during the winter months and their fluffy, powder puff looking Spitz has turned into one giant mat of tangled hair. Another popular reason is the simplicity of parasite control on a shorthaired dog.
A matted dog regardless of the size can cost the owner anywhere from $50 - $80 to have shaved down, bathed and dipped. If the dog is skittish or a fear biter needing sedation or even anesthesia, the cost will raise an additional $20 - $60. Many can afford the cost and feel it is justified simply by allowing the owner a way of NOT having to do it themselves. For the average owner of a dog though, a possible $140 just to get the dog groomed is outrageous. For these owners, there is a way out, self-clipping.
Clipping your own dog requires some forethought and acquisition of needed items. If your dog is the high-strung type that may become unmanageable from just the noise of the clippers, you may want to discuss with your veterinarian your plans and ask him or her for a sedative. In most cases the doctor will send home an oral medication called acepromazine. This medication is a great sedative but owners need to be warned not to use it if their dog has a history of seizures. As it sedates the dog it also lowers the seizure threshold and the dog can go into seizures that may last beyond the actual sedation time.
Before beginning the chore, you will of course need a pair of clippers. As an exgroomer and a veterinary technician with 13 years experience, I can tell you without hesitation, do not go cheap on the clippers. The $19.99-$39.99 sets of clippers you can acquire at Walmart simply won’t do the job. They are made for human hair and will not last one complete clipping of a matted cocker spaniel, collie or even a poodle. Your best bet is to go through a mail order catalog and get a set of clippers specifically designed for heavy use. My favorite type is the Oster A-5 two-speed clipper. It is the one used most often by groomers and veterinarians and while the initial cost may be high ($100-$130) they will last for years. It is also fairly easy to find pet supply or stores that carry replacement blades of varying sizes.
For a routine shave down, you will want the #10 size blade. It is the size that usually comes with the clipper and is fine enough to go through the mats but not so fine it shaves the dog close enough for surgery like the #40 blade.
The clippers also come with a small brush and a tube of oil. These items are your friends; make sure you keep up with them.
You next decision will be where you want to groom the dog. Inside/outside, sitting on the floor or up on a table or however is most convenient and comfortable for you. I have found outside on a table works best for me simply because I have collies with massive amounts of hair. The typical table places the collie so that their back is about even with my chest. It requires little bending and allows for easier repositioning of the dog and myself. Some find sitting on the ground and being able to restrain the dog easier.
A clean dog is easier to clip and it also adds longevity to the life of your clipper blades. A matted dog on the other hand is extremely hard to bathe and actually get the dirt and grime out from under the mats. The compromise is to remove as many of the mats as possible by hand and then go back over the dog with the clippers.
To begin you will need a long-toothed metal dog comb, a double bristled brush, scissors and a great deal of patience. Comb the areas that are unmated first and then begin on the mats. These are commonly behind the ears, under the tail, inside the thighs and on the backs of the rear legs.
As carefully as you can, take your comb and starting at the edge of a mat, use the teeth of the comb to lift the mat away from the skin. In most cases, you will be able to raise the mat ½ -3/4 of an inch away from the skin. Once you are able to raise the mat, use your scissors to make small snips under the mat. This process will have to be repeated through out the clipping process. While they don’t offer as smooth a cut, curved scissors are the safest for this portion of the project. By raising the mat away from the skin you lower the risk of accidentally cutting the dog but the chance is still there. This isn’t a chore that can be rushed. Depending on the size of the dog and the severity of the mats, you could be looking at up to one and a half to even two hours.
If lucky, you will be able to remove all mats this way. If not, you will at least have removed a large portion of the mats and saved wear and tear on your clipper blades. In that case, take the dog in and bathe it in a good cleansing shampoo. If you want to shave your dog because of parasites, you can use the flea shampoo but hold off on the dip. Dips leave a residue on the skin and hair that can cause additional wear on the clipper blades.
Once the dog is clean and dry, you can begin the actual clipping process. The artistic aspect of the clipping is left up to the owner. I personally like to leave my collies looking like lions. I shave the body starting at the shoulders and leave the massive ruff and a furry tail. Cocker owners often want to shave the back and sides of the body but leave the “feathers” on the legs. Others simply want as much hair as possible off the dog and the entire dog is shaved. Regardless of your preference, the use of the clippers will be the same.
To begin, make sure you are not working around any water. This may sound silly but people have been known to clip their dog in the bathtub thinking it would be easier to clean later while outside there is always the chance of water puddles. Simply put, electric clippers and water do NOT mix.
If you are working with the animal off the ground, you may want to place some type of blanket/padding on the ground in case of accidental dropping of the clippers. Like the Timex watch, these clippers can usually take a licking and keep on ticking but there is a limit to the amount of abuse any of them can take.
Turn the clippers on and allow the dog to get used to the sound. Hold the clippers near his/her head and once that has been accepted, lay the side of the clipper against the skin so the dog will become accustomed to the vibration. Most will accept the clippers after that. For those who won’t, the sedative is always helpful.
For the sake of this article I am going to assume you want the entire dog shaved. Start at the back of the ears and lay the clipper blades flat against the dog’s body. You do not want to make “scooping” motions with the clippers as they can cause skin irritation and even cuts. The clippers are actually made in a way to facilitate using them at the proper angle to the dog.
Whenever possible, make long, SLOW strokes with the way the hair lays. This makes for a more even cut and lowers the risk of clipper injuries to the dog. If you still have mats, you will have to work the clippers under the mat by laying the clipper against the skin and gently tugging on the mat while moving the blades under the mat. This process takes time and you never want to rush it.
When all the mats are removed on the main body, you can move on to the legs and feet. For those breeds like Poodles, Cockers and Maltese and such that get hair between the toes and pads of the feet, you will need to clip these areas as well. I have come across very few dogs that will stand for this process without protest. If you have someone to call in to help, now is the time to do so.
Once the dog is completely clipped, you may want to re-bathe and at this time use your dip or flea preventative of choice.
There are a few tips to remember while clipping your dog and most of them involve the clippers themselves. They are an electric appliance and get hot with over use. Periodically check the blade temperature by laying it flat against the inside of your forearm. If it is uncomfortable for you, it is uncomfortable for your pet. Hot blades can actually burn the dog’s skin. Whenever dealing with an animal, try to stay as calm as you can. Yelling only frightens an already frightened pet and produces an ugly cycle of fear and discontent over the clipping process.
The tiny tube of oil will go a long way so only use a few drops at a time. Before use, apply a few drops to the tops of the blade so it can run between the teeth and then turn the clipper on to spread the oil. During the clipping process, turn the clippers off, use the tiny brush to remove built up hair and then lightly oil again. There are air vents in the rear of the clipper housing, keep these clear of hair and dirt. When you have finished with the clippers, clean and oil them immediately then store them in a clean, dry area. If you have several dogs that you clip on a regular basis, you may want to find the service center closest to you so they can do preventative maintenance on your clippers. This will include them taking off the housing, cleaning the interior workings and oiling the appropriate parts.
If you have a breed that normally is clipped for appearances such as a Poodle, Schnauzer, Cocker and such, there are many fine books out there that will explain the various types of clips, blades to be used and even scissoring techniques. These books are available at most pet stores.
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